Dawn laps around the dragon's mirror

We set out early for a 5km loop around Beihai Lake, the central water that sits like a mirror in the heart of Beijing. The autumn air was crisp and cool—proper running weather—and the lake was still and glassy in the morning light, reflecting the pavilions and willows that line its shore. We pounded the path that circles the water, passing locals doing tai chi on the grass and early-rising cyclists weaving past us. There's something deeply satisfying about running in a city's lungs like this, surrounded by centuries-old architecture rather than endless traffic, even if we were constantly dodging the occasional bewildered tourist stumbling into our lane.